Château Durfort-Vivens 2018

Durfort-Vivens 2018 Margaux

• James Suckling – (96 – 97)

This is a crazy wine. Everything was done by hand, without electricity, because it was made in seven-hectoliter amphora. The grapes were hand-sorted. It’s full-bodied with tannins that are integrated so well into the wine, which gives it tension and freshness. Blackberries. Lavender. 10 hectoliters. Best Dufort ever?

• Decanter – Jane Anson (94)

Another biodynamic estate that suffered low yields in 2018, clocking in at just 12hl/ha. But it has done a brilliant job with the remaining juice: all the winemaking was done in amphorae because the vats were too big for the small production, with 70% of the wine moved into new oak barrels after malolactic fermentation for ageing, the other 30% staying in the amphorae.

It’s hugely inky in colour, totally beautiful, with gourmet dark chocolate and damson notes that fill out the mid-palate. There’s less Cabernet in the blend than usual but they have kept the elegance, with perhaps a touch more softness in overall texture than is usual in Durfort at this stage. The extremely fine tannins make this feel effortless and it doesn’t suffer from the over-concentration that is always a risk at these yields. Drinking Window 2027 – 2042