The ’98 d’Yquem has a more extravagant nose than I remember, less mineralite than it displayed in its youth and perhaps a little more alcoholic on the nose. There are touches of pineapple, mango, treacle and custard cremes, becoming peachier with time in the glass. The palate is viscous on the entry and very well balanced with honeycomb, white peach, apricot and wild honey that leads to a powerful, if not elegant finish. The ’98 is a little “unruly” at present. Drink 2016-2030. Tasted December 2010.
Neal Martin 94 pt.